Time has come to finally cross the Nullarbor, as mentioned something we have tried to do many many times, that hasn’t happened for different reasons. With the current fuel situation it was once again up in the air but I felt it was now or never and something I had to do for both Chris and myself and a big step in my healing journey.
So the day has finally come, our idea is to take our time stopping as many things as we can. First stop was the Penong Windmill Museum. A great display of windmills of all shapes and sizes, including Australia’s largest windmill. We decided we would do Lake MacDonald – The Pink Lake on our way back.
Australia’s biggest windmill, called Bruce
Lots of windmills.
All shapes and sizes.
A brief detour to the Big Wombat.
Minions on the side of the road.
Bookabie School Ruins, the remains of a school that operated from 1892 until 1957.
We stopped for the first night at Kidnippy Rest Stop near Yalata. This was a big area, going a fair way from the Eyre Hwy. We were able to get a great spot along the back fence and had a really quiet night.
Ceduna, gateway to the Nullarbor. We had booked into the Big 4 Ceduna Tourist Park, a month ago for 2 nights. When we arrived we saw they had a deal of pay 2 stay 3, so we decided to take advantage of the deal. Judy had booked and paid the deposit which covered her site. When we came and I paid for mine the price had gone up $4 a night so thought that was a bit rough when she had booked both sites and the deposit covered both sites.
I’ve never been a Big 4 fan because in the past most of them are not dog friendly. These days the demand for pet friendly accommodation for the travellers has increased and they seem to be changing their policy at least in some places. Even though this place allows dogs I would not say they are dog friendly and other travellers said the same.
It was still nice to have a break for a few days, catch up on some shores. The weather was not the best with overcast skies and drizzle.
A great mural near the other caravan park.
We did a drive to Thevanard Bought some fish and chips back in Ceduna and ate them down near the pier.
Some great murals around Ceduna.
The local post office.
All of the bins are painted with different art work.
We met some lovely people at the caravan park including 2 young inspiration people who had ridden their bikes across the Nullarbor. One from Ireland was riding around the world.
The Ceduna pier.
We were excited to head off across the Nullarbor on our first clear day for a while.
We left Peterborough and headed to Port Augusta for a few groceries and a stop at the local bakery. Judy had taken us on a bit of a short cut that took us past wind farms and some picturesque scenery, road was narrow and bumpy.
It had rained the night before and was still a pretty gloomy day.
We stopped for the night at Iron Knob RV Park, a donation park, and $2 for hot showers. The best hot showers since I have left home.
Camping was on a gravel base which was great when the storm rolled in at 4.30am.
There was not a blade of grass around, plenty of spiky weeds and loads of flies.
The town of Iron Knob is situated at the foot of an iron ore mine on the North East of the Eyre Peninsula in South Australia.
Iron Knob began as a housing settlement for miners somewhere between the late 1800’s to early 1900’s. It is often said to be the birthplace of Australia’s steel industry, and the mine is among the oldest still active in Australia.
Star Date – 9/4/26
We stopped for a break at Kimba and boy were we impressed. We weren’t staying the night but plan to spend a few days there on our way.
We pushed on at stopped at the Star Base Wudinna at the RV park. $10 unpowered, $20 powered. Drinking water, bins, table and chairs, toilets and one shower for $2.
Aboriginal meaning is Granite Hill (Woodina), has a population of approx 500 people and is the largest town in the council area.
I always go to say this name wrong. I can hear Chris correcting me when I think about how to say it. 😂
Nyngan was a pleasant surprise. A small country town with a lot of history, beautiful parks, free camping areas and one big, make that huge Bogan.
There are 3 free camping areas, one in town called the Flood Memorial Park, Nyngan Weir and the Nyngan Bowls Club. All 3 look great, the Weir seems to be a popular choice as it was obviously well used as it was very dusty with little to no grass, there were several campers there.
The one in town where I stayed is on bitumen, has shade, bins, table and chairs, dump point, potable water and well maintained toilets. It’s a very popular stop for people using the toilets. It’s in a very handy location to walk into the town area.
It was Good Friday when I was there so hardly anything was open and it was pretty quiet. It was also pretty hot so I did a drive around the area which allowed me to get further a field than if I had walked.
The Big Bogan is a site not to be missed with his fishing road and faithful friend Rusty. The Bogan Shire Council erected the structure in September 2015 as a tourist attraction, to promote Nyngan and the shire. The term Bogan originated from the Aussie larrikin and ocker. And where better to have a big Bogan than on the banks of the Bogan River. The Bogan represents the relaxed lifestyle on the river. So you have the Big Bogan on the Bogan River in the Bogan Shire.
In April 1990 the Bogan River flooded and completely inundated the town despite the efforts of the locals the leeve bank was breached. The flood broke all previous records. The town was cut off and under water, all services were cut. It was decided to airlift almost the entire population.
The Coach House in the same park as the Big Bogan.
In 1992 the Governor of NSW and the Nyngan Flood Recovery Coordinator, Rear Admiral Peter Sinclair presented a helicopter called Iroquois A2-1022 to the people of Nyngan on behalf of the Australian Government to commemorate the evacuation of Nyngan on the 24th October 1990.
The Iroquois A2-1022 had been used in the Vietnam War by the 9 squadron RAAF. The Iroquois remained in Nyngan for 19 years the town unaware of significance of the military history of the A2-1022 until in 2009 when a former member of the 9 squadron travelling through Nyngan spotted the aircraft.
Following talks between the Bogan Council and the Caloundra (QLD) RSL Sub Branch Recovery Team 2011, the A2-1022 was transported by road to Caloundra where it was restored and put on display outside the Caloundra RSP with a dedication ceremony in March 2012.
A Iroquois airframe was also restored to replace the A2-1022 in Nyngan which is on display in the main street.
I also came across a water tower beautifully painted, really outstanding. The people that paint these are incredible talented.
We drove down to the river where Jess insisted on a swim. Not that I blamed her it looked incredible inviting.
After a drive out to the weir it was decided we would stay back in town where it was less dusty.
There is also a Visitor Centre, Museum, Mid State Shearing Shed Museum, Nyngan Coach House, Golf Course, lovely parks with several public toilets around town. A main street that has plenty of shops and banks, but all closed.
I was impressed with Nyngan and it would nice to come back again when things are open.
A “state of flux” describes a situation that is constantly changing, unstable, and uncertain. It signifies a transitional phase where the outcome is not yet determined or settled, sounds like the world at the moment. And also a title of an episode in Star Trek Voyager, so seemed a fitting title for this post.
On my trip, I need to be fluid, be able to change, adapt and be flexible. I’ve certainly felt like my plans were in a “state of flux”
My planned route had to remain flexible, it has changed several times due to different reasons including flooding.
I also factored in where more star-bases were to fuel up, keeping topped up along the way.
Houston we have a problem. Ready to head off and leave home port to find my Staria Trek would not start. It turned out to be the power cell and I had to get Battery World out for a replacement. Have to say they were excellent. The power cells in my particular star ship are rather unique in that, they are an AGM and the poles are the opposite to most star ships, according to the guy who came out they are the only star ship like that. That means they can charge a premium for the power cells. An extra cost I could have done without but also very thankful I was still at home base and they came out very quickly. Only 2 hrs delayed start.
First stop for the night was Goondiwindi show ground. It is rather dry and dusty.
Next stop was Hickey Falls, not far out of Coonabarabran. It was nice and green, gravel bitumen base carpark area that was relatively flat. A nice green grass area next to it. Shelter shed with tables and seats, several bins. A local council worker came and cleaned the tables and seats, saying they were cleaned 3 times a week.
The walk to the falls is less than a min walk from the carpark. It was not flowing when I was there but did have some water in the swimming hole, which Jess got to have a little paddle.
That is the question. As many would know I was/am planning a trip from Brisbane Qld down to Peterborough SA, across the Nullarbor, exploring around the Perth area, basically doing a loop from Norseman, Perth, Albany, Esperance etc. you get the idea, back across the Nullarbor, exploring everything there was to offer along the way before heading back home. A min of 12,000km and away for many months.
Crossing the Nullarbor has been on the to do list for Chris and I for many many years. At least 3 times we have made plans to do it but due to circumstances it didn’t happen. Last year was due to the passing of Chris.
I promised Chris I would do it this year on behalf of us both with my friend, Judy. We have been planning it for months, looking forward to it, excited to do it, plans are in place, food prep, vehicle prep, my route from Qld down to Peterborough to meet Judy sorted. I’ve been running food down at home for weeks, ready to turn the fridge off, planning on being away for many months.
A week out, the whole fuel situation, cost and availability has put a big question mark over the trip. I am starting to wonder if crossing the Nullarbor is something I am destined not to do.
Balancing the desire to go, vs the fuel costs and whether availability of fuel is going to be an issue. To be or not to be, that is the question. A question I know I am not alone in asking. As many Australian’s and even travellers from other countries ponder the very same question.
It’s easy to say leave it a few weeks, months, or even “there is next year”. I think the reality of the fact is that fuel prices are not going to go down any time soon. I also know firsthand how plans can change and sometimes you don’t get another opportunity.
It shows how connected the world is now, that something that is happening in another part of the world a long distance from Australia, issues we have nothing to do with. Issues and disputes that have gone on for generations now affect us in the land down under. Oil refineries and other energy sources destroyed. It will take years, even decades for these to be rebuilt, the world has changed.
