SA/WA

Star Date: 15/4/26.

We stopped at several viewing areas overlooking the Great Australian Bight, some with some great views of the cliffs.

One area had many people camping there on the cliffs edge, one of the few places left to camp. Great views be awesome to have a sunset on the cliffs. Fingers crossed for on the way back.

The Vegemite Kangaroo at Border Village.

SA/WA sign at the border. Unfortunately surrounded by a fence.

The big whale at Eucla.

Eucla has its own timezone. 45 mins behind WA and 45min ahead of SA. All our devices are on different time zones. A common issue travellers talk about so nobody really seems to know what the time is.

Next to the roadhouse at Eucla is a good gravel road down to the Eucla Old Telegraph Station, with free camping close by.

The Old Telegraph Station is only a short walk, most of it is being taken over by the sand now. So sad to see some graffiti all over it. Eucla telegraph line and manual repeater station were established in 1877. Together with the telegraph line, a jetty and tram line were also constructed for offloading supplies brought by ships. 1927, the Eucla Telegraph Station closed.

The station also had to deal with a rabbit plague. The sand drifts were caused by the rabbit plague that destroyed dune vegetation. Now it is little more than a few old stone walls protruding above the moving dunes.

The Old Eucla Jetty was a bit more challenging to get to. Follow the 4wd tracks they said. Well that worked in the soft sand, we were happily following the 4wd tracks and other foot prints. Until we came to hard ground with no clear 4wd tracks and multiple tracks leading off in all directions. We took what we thought was right, which turned out to be wrong. Having us taking the long way, getting lost and following our nose or maybe Jess’s nose to the beach. Which we eventually found a little distance from the old pier.

Built in 1887, the old Eucla Jetty was once used by sail & steam ships to bring stores from Albany and Esperance. It was also used to export wool and Sandalwood from out of the Eucla region. The original jetty structure extended out into the Bight for more than a hundred meters.

Some young people climbed up there easy.

There were some other people there in 4wd’s so we asked them was there a clear road back. Yeah sure follow our 4wd tracks. 😳 So we did that coming back and again came across hard ground, with no tracks and multiple ways to go. Thankfully another 4wd came along and we headed off on the track they took. Eventually we go back to camp exhausted, very hot and sweaty.

What an adventure.

Live Long and Prosper. 🖖🏿

Head of the Bight

Star Date: 14/04/26.

Head of the Bight is a great place to see Southern Right Whales in the winter months from May to October. Outside that time the entry price is half price and is still a great place to visit.

Free camp area at the entry gate to the visitor centre.

A easy boardwalk leads you to the cliff edge with amazing views of the ocean and Bunda Cliffs.

Amazing views of the Bunda cliffs, our first glimpse.

A couple of small lizards heaving a fight.

The coloured one seemed to be loosing the battle.

Next was the sign for the Eastern End of the Treeless Plain. Nullarbor” is derived from the Latin words nullus (“nothing” or “no”) and arbor(“tree”), directly translating to “no trees” There was indeed no trees but small bushes. It is a really good road.

I was a little emotional at the sign, thinking of Chris and how much we both wanted to do this trip together.

The famous Nullarbor Roadhouse. We had lunch here and I bought a cute Emu with big eyes that will sit on my shelf at home reminding me of this trip. I’ve called in Nelly from the Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Photo of the original roadhouse.

Camels, Wombats, Kangaroos and dogs 😂 We have not actually seen any animals on the Nullarbor so far.

A few other signs at the Nullarbor Roadhouse.

Inside the roadhouse an amazing mural.

A sense of humour, love it.

Royal Flying Doctor Service R.F.D.S landing strip on the Eyre Highway.

The first scenic lookout of the Great Australian Bight showing the Bunda cliffs. Amazing, can see how the cliffs edges are falling away. A lot of the previous entry points to view the cliffs have been closed off deemed too dangerous.

We found a spot to camp for the night just off the road well hidden from sight.

Live Long and Prosper. 🖖🏿

To bodily go…

Star Date: 13/4/26.

Time has come to finally cross the Nullarbor, as mentioned something we have tried to do many many times, that hasn’t happened for different reasons. With the current fuel situation it was once again up in the air but I felt it was now or never and something I had to do for both Chris and myself and a big step in my healing journey.

So the day has finally come, our idea is to take our time stopping as many things as we can. First stop was the Penong Windmill Museum. A great display of windmills of all shapes and sizes, including Australia’s largest windmill. We decided we would do Lake MacDonald – The Pink Lake on our way back.

Australia’s biggest windmill, called Bruce

Lots of windmills.

All shapes and sizes.

A brief detour to the Big Wombat.

Minions on the side of the road.

Bookabie School Ruins, the remains of a school that operated from 1892 until 1957.

We stopped for the first night at Kidnippy Rest Stop near Yalata. This was a big area, going a fair way from the Eyre Hwy. We were able to get a great spot along the back fence and had a really quiet night.

A few interesting signs along the way.

Live Long and Prosper. 🖖🏿

Gateway

Star date: 10/4/26

Ceduna, gateway to the Nullarbor. We had booked into the Big 4 Ceduna Tourist Park, a month ago for 2 nights. When we arrived we saw they had a deal of pay 2 stay 3, so we decided to take advantage of the deal. Judy had booked and paid the deposit which covered her site. When we came and I paid for mine the price had gone up $4 a night so thought that was a bit rough when she had booked both sites and the deposit covered both sites.

I’ve never been a Big 4 fan because in the past most of them are not dog friendly. These days the demand for pet friendly accommodation for the travellers has increased and they seem to be changing their policy at least in some places. Even though this place allows dogs I would not say they are dog friendly and other travellers said the same.

It was still nice to have a break for a few days, catch up on some shores. The weather was not the best with overcast skies and drizzle.

A great mural near the other caravan park.

We did a drive to Thevanard Bought some fish and chips back in Ceduna and ate them down near the pier.

Some great murals around Ceduna.

The local post office.

All of the bins are painted with different art work.

We met some lovely people at the caravan park including 2 young inspiration people who had ridden their bikes across the Nullarbor. One from Ireland was riding around the world.

The Ceduna pier.

We were excited to head off across the Nullarbor on our first clear day for a while.

Live Long and Prosper. 🖖🏿

Granite Hill

Star Date – 8/4/26

We left Peterborough and headed to Port Augusta for a few groceries and a stop at the local bakery.  Judy had taken us on a bit of a short cut that took us past wind farms and some picturesque scenery, road was narrow and bumpy.

It had rained the night before and was still a pretty gloomy day.

We stopped for the night at Iron Knob RV Park, a donation park, and $2 for hot showers. The best hot showers since I have left home.

Camping was on a gravel base which was great when the storm rolled in at 4.30am.

There was not a blade of grass around, plenty of spiky weeds and loads of flies.

The town of Iron Knob is situated at the foot of an iron ore mine on the North East of the Eyre Peninsula in South Australia.

Iron Knob began as a housing settlement for miners somewhere between the late 1800’s to early 1900’s. It is often said to be the birthplace of Australia’s steel industry, and the mine is among the oldest still active in Australia.

Star Date – 9/4/26

We stopped for a break at Kimba and boy were we impressed. We weren’t staying the night but plan to spend a few days there on our way.

We pushed on at stopped at the Star Base Wudinna at the RV park. $10 unpowered, $20 powered. Drinking water, bins, table and chairs, toilets and one shower for $2.

Aboriginal meaning is Granite Hill (Woodina), has a population of approx 500 people and is the largest town in the council area.

Live Long and Prosper 🖖🏿

Peterborough

Star Date, 6th day of the 5th month in the year 2026.

After my enjoyable stay at Nyngan I headed towards Broken Hill, stopping at base camp at Wilcannia. We have driven through it several times but due to not finding any suitable places off road to stop for the night I elected to stay safely at the Victory Caravan Park that is council run. There were 9 other travellers there as well as a large group of locals staying a few days. Families with lots of youth from town coming and going. We had no issues at all, a friendly bunch having a great time.

I’d was at Broken Hill in Oct 2024 with Chris, we stayed here for several day exploring the local attractions. You can look back over past Captain’s logs to read what we got up to.

I stayed at the Event Centre and Racecourse where we stayed last night. We had a grassed non powered section all to ourselves. It’s a few km’s out of the main town area but that makes it nice and quiet.

After a brief stop at the shops it was onward to Peterborough SA. My meeting place to meet up with Judy. I was arriving a day earlier to relax a bit after my long few days of travel.

There are strict restrictions of bringing in fruit and veg, check before you cross the border to avoid having to throw out any food. The quarantine station was at Oodla Wirra, friendly man who gave Jess’s carrot the thumbs up and we were on our way.

I was excited and a little emotional to reach Peterborough. I had driven 1865km’s on my own over 6 days. It was a big deal, I said to Chris I made it and knew he would be so proud.

I drove straight to the self contained RV park, setup camp and chilled for a few mins before lunch. It’s like a big oval, people camping mostly around the outside, a big green area in the middle, mostly weeds rather than grass. Nice and flat. There are bins but no other facilities which is why you must be self contained. In town is a dump point and potable water. There is also a dog park very close by.

We mostly chilled for the afternoon with a few short walks with Jess.

7th April, Jess and I did the walk into town. About a 1km to the dump point area and then a very long street. Peterborough is known for trains. Steamtown Heritage Rail Centre and visitor information centre was unfortunately closed, due to the Council’s current financial position. Sounds like they are working towards reopening sometime in 2026.

There are several old steam trains around town.

Y Class Steam locomotive, in the town square.

Town Carriage Museum, a 1916 first class sleeping car, which was used on the first train across the Nullarbor from Port Augusta to Kalgoorlie.

Bob the Railway Dog, located in front of the carriage museum. Bob was the engine drivers companion, died at 13 years of age in 1895. Jess makes friends where ever she goes.

Judy also arrived today, so no more travelling solo for a while.

Live Long and Prosper 🖖🏿

To be or not to be…….

That is the question. As many would know I was/am planning a trip from Brisbane Qld down to Peterborough SA, across the Nullarbor, exploring around the Perth area, basically doing a loop from Norseman, Perth, Albany, Esperance etc. you get the idea, back across the Nullarbor, exploring everything there was to offer along the way before heading back home. A min of 12,000km and away for many months.

Crossing the Nullarbor has been on the to do list for Chris and I for many many years. At least 3 times we have made plans to do it but due to circumstances it didn’t happen. Last year was due to the passing of Chris.

I promised Chris I would do it this year on behalf of us both with my friend, Judy. We have been planning it for months, looking forward to it, excited to do it, plans are in place, food prep, vehicle prep, my route from Qld down to Peterborough to meet Judy sorted. I’ve been running food down at home for weeks, ready to turn the fridge off, planning on being away for many months.

A week out, the whole fuel situation, cost and availability has put a big question mark over the trip. I am starting to wonder if crossing the Nullarbor is something I am destined not to do.

Balancing the desire to go, vs the fuel costs and whether availability of fuel is going to be an issue. To be or not to be, that is the question. A question I know I am not alone in asking. As many Australian’s and even travellers from other countries ponder the very same question.

It’s easy to say leave it a few weeks, months, or even “there is next year”. I think the reality of the fact is that fuel prices are not going to go down any time soon. I also know firsthand how plans can change and sometimes you don’t get another opportunity.

It shows how connected the world is now, that something that is happening in another part of the world a long distance from Australia, issues we have nothing to do with. Issues and disputes that have gone on for generations now affect us in the land down under. Oil refineries and other energy sources destroyed. It will take years, even decades for these to be rebuilt, the world has changed.

To be or not to be ………..